In December 2025, my fellow Rete VIP member José Amici invited me to participate in the Cantina Subacquea Sperimentale (Experimental Underwater Cellar), a unique project in which bottles from 13 local wineries were submerged 15 meters underwater in Lake Nemi. Our Jacobini wine was among them.
Six months later, in June 2026, the bottles were recovered and compared with wines aged in traditional cellars. The goal was to explore a sustainable alternative to conventional aging while fostering a spirit of collaboration among municipalities, producers and the natural charateristics found in the Castelli Romani.
Why Age Wine Underwater?
The conditions are naturally ideal: constant temperature, complete darkness, no electricity consumption, and minimal oxygen exposure. Surrounding water also creates pressure on the bottles, potentially influencing the aging process.
Underwater aging can also reduce the environmental impact and energy costs associated with climate-controlled storage. The primary drawback may be the need for monitoring. While our experiment involved only a small quantity of wine, larger-scale operations would likely require specialized surveillance systems such as underwater robots.
The Tasting Verdict
Led by Umberto Trombelli, Best Sommelier of Lazio 2024 and AIS Latina Delegate, the tasting compared underwater aged and cellar aged versions of eight wines.
Representing a broad spectrum of styles, the wines tasted were sparkling wines, fresh whites, reds, oak-aged reds, and sweet wines. Bottles ranged from having wax capsules, traditional closures and no capsules at all.
Acoss the board, the verdict was consistent: wines aged in the lake appeared younger, fresher, and less evolved, with more delicate aromas than their traditionally aged counterparts. It seems underwater aging may slow the maturation process and could offer exciting possibilities for longer aging periods.
A Network Dedicated to Promoting the Territory
This project created a vast network across the region, bringing together local producers, natural resources, public institutions, and eight municipalities throughout the Castelli Romani.
Leading the project was José Amici—entrepreneur, diving instructor, Treasurer of Rete VIP, and producer of Caligola, the first wine commercially aged in Lake Nemi.
With the support of local authorities, the Parco Regionale dei Castelli Romani, and the Associazione Nazionale Città del Vino, the tasting was held at Palazzo Ruspoli in Nemi.
Featured Wines in the Tasting
- Tenuta San Leo – Livilla Classic Method Brut Sparkling Wine
- Tenimenti Leone – Roma DOC Bellone Vulc Num 2024
- Azienda Agricola Biologica Carafa Jacobini – Organic Lazio Bianco 2024
- Colle di Maggio – Lazio Bianco Integrale Lunapigra 2020
- Casale Mattia – Cannellino di Frascati DOCG 2023
- Cantina Costantini – Lazio Rosso Cesanese 2024
- Tenuta Iacoangeli – Lazio Rosso 1571 2023
- Marco Serra – Lazio Rosso Sangiovese 2023
Whether underwater aging becomes a common practice or remains an experimental technique, the project offered valuable insights and brought together a remarkable network of people from across the Castelli Romani.